Article last updated: October 15, 2024
Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate, also known by its chemical name 1,2,3-Propanetriol, homopolymer, 9-(Z)-octadecanoates (1:1) (5 mol glycerol average molar ratio), is a versatile emulsifying agent commonly used in cosmetic formulations. This ingredient is derived from natural sources, primarily glycerol and oleic acid. Glycerol, also known as glycerin, is a simple polyol compound, while oleic acid is a fatty acid that occurs naturally in various animal and vegetable fats and oils.
The history of Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate in cosmetics dates back to the increasing demand for more natural and skin-friendly emulsifiers. Traditional emulsifiers often posed issues such as skin irritation or were derived from less sustainable sources. The development of Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate provided a solution that was both effective and more aligned with the growing consumer preference for natural ingredients. Its ability to blend oil and water phases in cosmetic products without causing irritation made it a popular choice among formulators.
The production of Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate involves a process called esterification, where glycerol undergoes polymerization to form polyglycerol. This polyglycerol is then reacted with oleic acid to produce the final compound. The “5” in Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate indicates that, on average, five glycerol units are polymerized together before being esterified with oleic acid. This specific structure gives it unique properties that make it an effective emulsifier, helping to stabilize and maintain the consistency of cosmetic products.
In this section, we will delve into the officially recognized cosmetic benefits and uses of Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate:
Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate primarily functions as an emulsifying agent. In simple terms, this means it helps blend ingredients that typically don’t mix well together, such as oil and water. This is crucial in many cosmetic formulations, ensuring that products like creams, lotions, and serums have a smooth, uniform texture. Without emulsifiers, these products would separate, leading to an inconsistent application and reduced effectiveness.
Note: the listed benefits above are exclusively based on the officially recognized and defined functions of the ingredient, as documented by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI).
Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetic products. It is known for its emulsifying properties, which help to blend water and oil-based ingredients. However, as with any cosmetic ingredient, there are potential side effects and considerations to keep in mind.
Regarding individuals who are pregnant or breastfeeding, data and research on the topical usage of Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate during pregnancy are lacking. Therefore, it is advisable for pregnant or breastfeeding women to consult a healthcare professional for further advice before using products containing this ingredient.
Adverse reactions to Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate are uncommon, but it is always a good practice to perform a patch test before widespread usage to ensure there are no adverse reactions.
In terms of comedogenicity, Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate has a rating of 1 on a scale of 0 to 5, where 0 is totally non-comedogenic and 5 is highly comedogenic. This low rating indicates that it is unlikely to clog pores, making it generally suitable for people prone to acne, blemishes, or breakouts.
