Article last updated: October 15, 2024
Neotame is a synthetic sweetener that has found its way into the world of cosmetics primarily as a flavouring agent. This ingredient is a derivative of aspartame, a well-known artificial sweetener, but with a few chemical tweaks that make it even sweeter and more stable. Chemically, Neotame is composed of the amino acids L-phenylalanine and L-aspartic acid, with an additional 3,3-dimethylbutyl group attached to the nitrogen atom of the aspartic acid.
Neotame was developed by the NutraSweet Company and received approval from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in 2002 for use as a general-purpose sweetener. Its journey into the cosmetic industry is relatively recent, driven by its potent sweetening properties and stability, which make it an attractive option for enhancing the sensory experience of cosmetic products.
The production of Neotame involves a multi-step chemical synthesis process. It starts with the amino acids L-phenylalanine and L-aspartic acid, which undergo a series of reactions to form the ester bond. The addition of the 3,3-dimethylbutyl group is a crucial step that significantly increases the sweetness and stability of the compound. This synthetic process ensures that Neotame is highly pure and effective for its intended use in cosmetics.
In this section, we will delve into the officially recognized cosmetic benefits and uses of Neotame:
Neotame is primarily used as a flavouring agent in cosmetic products. This means it is added to enhance or impart a pleasant taste to products that may come into contact with the mouth or lips, such as lip balms, lipsticks, and certain oral care items. By improving the taste, Neotame can make these products more enjoyable to use, encouraging consistent application and enhancing the overall user experience.
Note: the listed benefits above are exclusively based on the officially recognized and defined functions of the ingredient, as documented by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI).
Neotame is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics, with a low allergenic potential. However, as with any ingredient, some individuals may experience side effects from topical application. Potential side effects include:
Regarding individuals who are pregnant or breastfeeding, data and research on the topical usage of Neotame during pregnancy and breastfeeding are lacking. Therefore, it is advisable for these individuals to consult a healthcare professional for further advice.
Adverse reactions to Neotame are relatively uncommon, but it is still recommended to perform a patch test before widespread usage to ensure personal tolerance.
Neotame has a comedogenicity rating of 0, meaning it is considered non-comedogenic. This is good news for individuals prone to acne, blemishes, or breakouts, as it is unlikely to clog pores or exacerbate these conditions.
