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Article last updated: October 15, 2024
Isodecyl Citrate, also known by its chemical name 1,2,3-Propanetricarboxylic acid, 2-hydroxy-, isodecyl ester, is a versatile ingredient commonly found in cosmetic products. This compound is derived from citric acid, a naturally occurring substance found in citrus fruits, and isodecyl alcohol, a synthetic fatty alcohol. The combination of these two components results in a multifunctional ester that serves several purposes in skincare and cosmetic formulations.
The use of Isodecyl Citrate in cosmetics has a relatively recent history, emerging as a popular ingredient in the past few decades. Its rise in popularity can be attributed to its multifunctional properties, which make it a valuable addition to various formulations. Initially, it was explored for its potential as a plasticizer, a substance that increases the flexibility and fluidity of materials. However, its skin-conditioning and emollient properties soon caught the attention of cosmetic chemists, leading to its broader application in skincare products.
The production of Isodecyl Citrate involves a chemical reaction known as esterification. In this process, citric acid reacts with isodecyl alcohol in the presence of a catalyst. The reaction results in the formation of Isodecyl Citrate and water as a byproduct. This method ensures a high-purity product that can be safely used in various cosmetic formulations. The resulting ester is a clear, colorless to pale yellow liquid that is easily incorporated into creams, lotions, and other personal care products.
In this section, we will delve into the officially recognized cosmetic benefits and uses of Isodecyl Citrate:
Isodecyl Citrate acts as a plasticiser in cosmetic formulations. This means it helps to increase the flexibility and fluidity of products, making them easier to apply and spread on the skin. For example, in products like lotions and creams, it ensures that the texture remains smooth and pliable, enhancing the overall user experience.
As a skin conditioning agent, Isodecyl Citrate helps to maintain the skin’s softness, suppleness, and overall appearance. It works by forming a thin layer on the skin’s surface, which helps to lock in moisture and prevent dryness. This makes it a valuable ingredient in moisturizers, serums, and other skincare products aimed at improving skin texture and hydration.
Isodecyl Citrate also serves as an emollient, which means it helps to soften and smooth the skin. Emollients are crucial in skincare because they fill in the gaps between skin cells, creating a smoother surface. This can be particularly beneficial for individuals with dry or rough skin, as it provides immediate relief and a more comfortable skin feel.
Note: the listed benefits above are exclusively based on the officially recognized and defined functions of the ingredient, as documented by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI).
Isodecyl Citrate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetic products, with a low potential for causing adverse reactions. However, as with any ingredient, there are some considerations to keep in mind.
Regarding individuals who are pregnant or breastfeeding, data and research on the topical usage of Isodecyl Citrate during pregnancy are lacking. Therefore, it is advisable for these individuals to consult a healthcare professional for further advice.
Adverse reactions to Isodecyl Citrate are relatively uncommon, but it is always a good practice to conduct a patch test before widespread usage to ensure there are no adverse reactions.
In terms of comedogenicity, Isodecyl Citrate has a rating of 1 on a scale of 0 to 5, where 0 is totally non-comedogenic and 5 is highly comedogenic. This low rating means it is unlikely to clog pores and is generally suitable for people prone to acne, blemishes, or breakouts.
