Article last updated: October 15, 2024
Choleth-20, also known as (3beta)-Cholest-5-en-3-ol, ethoxylated (20 mol EO average molar ratio), is a versatile ingredient commonly found in various cosmetic products. It is derived from cholesterol, a natural substance found in the cell membranes of all animal tissues. The “ethoxylated” part of its name refers to the chemical process it undergoes, where ethylene oxide is added to cholesterol, resulting in a compound that has an average of 20 ethylene oxide units per molecule. This process enhances its solubility and functionality in cosmetic formulations.
Historically, the use of cholesterol and its derivatives in cosmetics dates back several decades. Initially, cholesterol was valued for its moisturizing properties and its ability to mimic the natural lipids found in human skin. Over time, chemists discovered that by ethoxylating cholesterol, they could create ingredients like Choleth-20, which offer additional benefits such as improved emulsification and cleansing properties. This innovation allowed for the development of more sophisticated and effective cosmetic products.
The production of Choleth-20 involves a multi-step chemical process. First, cholesterol is extracted and purified from natural sources, typically animal fats. Next, it undergoes ethoxylation, where it is reacted with ethylene oxide under controlled conditions. This reaction attaches ethylene oxide units to the cholesterol molecule, resulting in the formation of Choleth-20. The final product is a versatile ingredient that can be easily incorporated into various cosmetic formulations, enhancing their performance and stability.
In this section, we will delve into the officially recognized cosmetic benefits and uses of Choleth-20:
Choleth-20 is known for its cleansing properties. This means it helps to remove dirt, oil, and other impurities from the skin. When included in cosmetic formulations like facial cleansers, body washes, or shampoos, Choleth-20 works by breaking down and emulsifying the oils and dirt on the skin or hair, making it easier to wash them away. This results in a cleaner, fresher feel without stripping the skin or hair of its natural moisture.
Another key benefit of Choleth-20 is its ability to act as an emulsifier. In simple terms, an emulsifier helps to blend together ingredients that typically don’t mix well, such as oil and water. This is crucial in many cosmetic products like lotions, creams, and serums, where a stable and uniform mixture is needed for the product to be effective and pleasant to use. By ensuring that the ingredients are well-mixed, Choleth-20 helps to improve the texture, consistency, and overall performance of the product.
Note: the listed benefits above are exclusively based on the officially recognized and defined functions of the ingredient, as documented by the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI).
Choleth-20 is generally considered safe for use in cosmetic products. However, as with any ingredient, there are potential side effects and considerations to keep in mind.
Regarding individuals who are pregnant or breastfeeding, data and research on the topical usage of Choleth-20 during pregnancy are lacking. Therefore, it is advisable for pregnant or breastfeeding women to consult a healthcare professional for further advice before using products containing this ingredient.
Adverse reactions to Choleth-20 are relatively uncommon, but it is always prudent to conduct a patch test before widespread usage to ensure personal tolerance.
Choleth-20 has a comedogenic rating of 1, which means it is unlikely to clog pores and cause acne or breakouts. This makes it a suitable ingredient for individuals prone to acne or blemishes.
